Poddelka Nude: Florian

This is where Poddelka’s genius for material heresy shines. He has long rejected traditional leather for ethical and textural reasons. Instead, here are coats grown from mycelium, dyed with iron oxide. A dress appears to be woven from discarded audio cassette tape, the magnetic ribbon catching the gallery’s halogen lights in a shimmering, glitchy rainbow. “I want the garment to have a memory,” Poddelka explains. “Not of a season, but of a previous life as something else.”

Outside, the Vienna rain begins to fall. And a dozen guests, already wearing Poddelka’s metallic lace or chainmail cuffs, step out into it unbothered. For them, the night has only just begun. Florian Poddelka Nude

“Fashion is too slow,” he says, his eyes scanning the room. “A gallery forces you to stop. But my clothes? They move. They fight back.” This is where Poddelka’s genius for material heresy shines

The first room features suits. Or, what used to be suits. One jacket, suspended in a vitrine like a rare butterfly, has its shoulder pads exploded outward, stitched with copper wire and fragments of shattered mirror. Another hangs off a hyper-articulated mannequin, its back slashed open to reveal a corset of industrial zip-ties. The placard reads: “Power Dressing for the Apocalypse.” A young collector in a pristine Thom Browne blazer stares at it, mouth slightly agape. A dress appears to be woven from discarded

The crowd’s favorite. A series of sheer, flesh-colored bodysuits are embroidered not with pearls, but with ball bearings, cotter pins, and tiny brass gears scavenged from a dismantled 1960s Junghans clock. One piece, titled “Panzer” (Tank), is a cropped bolero made entirely of hand-linked, powder-coated chainmail. When the model, Nina, walks through the space, it sounds like a thousand tiny swords kissing.

“We spend so much time hiding our repairs, our mends, our scars,” he says, gesturing to a coat whose lapel is a patchwork of old denim, burlap, and what looks like a scrap of a firefighter’s uniform. “I want to wear my history on the outside.”

As the crowd buzzes—Vienna’s art elite mingling with teenage skaters who saved up for Poddelka’s more affordable “Hardware” accessories line—the designer steps back into the shadows. He has already removed his own tunic and is now just in a simple, perfectly worn white t-shirt and trousers held up by a rope.